Tag Archives: Sabvoton

11KW Electric Death Trike – Think Electric GoKart with Pedals

Electric Technologies 11Kw Death Trike


  • KMX Typhoon
    -Reinforced Rear Swingarm
  • Adam333 KMX Front Suspension Retrofit
  • Stock Avid Dual Mechanical Disc Brakes
  • No mechanical rear brake / Regen Only
  • 14″ Dirtbike Front Rims relaced with stock KMX front 32H hubs
  • IRC NR77 Moped Front Tires 14″ x 2.75
  • Rear 16″ x 2.75 Pirelli ML75 Moped Tire                                                      Drive Train
  • 74V Hobbyking Multistars 16AH
  • Sabvoton 72V150A 
  • MXUS V3 Turbo 3K 3T                            Building the Electric Death Trike                          Death Trike V1  48V 750W BBS02 

Building the Electric Death Trike took a span of a little over a year. The KMX Typhoon trike was picked up for a measly $700, a craigslist special. Although I have seen these trikes for as low as $500 on craigslist.

The first night I brought the trike home, I installed a Bafang BBS02 and a 48V battery onto it. From there the first version of the Death Trike was born, in its slowest incarnation.

The BBS02 wasn’t particularly powerful, torque was passable in the lower gears and eventually the trike would hit 30mph top speed. However, the trike did struggle with steep hills, often just crawling up steep grades.  Shifting the trike constantly would become old especially when riding it on the street. Additionally, the BBS02 would become hot on extended rides, the small motor could not handle the extra weight and load of the Trike.

                        Death Trike V2  72V Cyclone 3Kw Motor 


Death Trike V2 discarded the BBS02 and replaced it with the potent Cyclone 3000W motor, the bike now had dramatically more power compared to the BBS02.

The Cyclone is a bigger and heavier motor, with significantly beefed up internals. Torque, acceleration, and hill climbing abilities have significantly improved compared to the BBS02 but it was significantly louder. Moving up to 72V, the motor ran at a higher RPM so I can could get more use out of each gear. Shifting wasn’t as bad, and it was actually fun as It felt like a Formula-E car with fast and crisp shifting.

Death Trike KMX with Cyclone Motor
Death Trike KMX with Cyclone Motor

Due to the increase power and the long chain line, it caused all sorts of problems including snapping the deraileur hanger, chain tubes,  chain and etc. This has left me stranded on several occasions and I’ve decided to go hub motor to alleviate the problems associated with mid drives.

                        Death Trike V3  72V MXUS V3 3K Turbo 11Kw 


This is the Death Trike in its current rendition, running a 72V 16AH battery with a MXUS V3 3K Turbo and Sabvoton 72V150A controller. Power has gone up significantly, now the Trike is putting out 11Kw compared to the 3Kw with the Cyclone motor. Top speed is now a little over 50mph, and the Trike gets there in only a few seconds.  The Trike runs smoothly and silently due to the Sinewave Sabvoton Controller. Also, the Trike has forward and reverse.

Front 14
Front 14″ NR77 Moped Tires

Front Wheel Setup has also been upgraded from the stock 16″ Bicycle Tires and Wheels to 14″ Dirt Bike Rims and 14″ x 2.75 IRC NR77 Moped Racing Tires.

Rear Tire has been upgraded from the Shinko 16″ x 2.25 to Pirelli 16″ x 2.75. Rim is a 20″ XL Trippin BMX Rim.

The Sabvoton Controller is completely maxed out at 150A, with regen capabilities for rear braking. With a 74V battery, output was 150A from the battery and 350A to the motor.

The MXUS motor would run a little warm especially at higher power levels, a QS V3 205 motor would take care of any heat issues. Power is more than adequate however, a front steering stabilizer would take care of the front end wobble.

Yes, the trike is driftable.

Thank you for reading this article, I did took the time and effort to write it so hopefully you the reader learned a bit about building the Death Trike, as I did enjoyed riding it.

QS Motor and Sabvoton 12Kw-16Kw Setup

QS Motor and Sabvoton = Electric Motorcycle Performance 

The Race Bike I’ve built for the track, specifically Socal Motorized Bicycle Racing consists of these parts.

EDGE Race Bike

  • White Enduro Frame
  • Motoseat
  • Marzocchi 888 Fork
  • QS 205 V3 4T
  • Sabvoton 72V150A
  • Cycle Analyst V3
  • 16″ Moped Rims all around
  • Heidenau K56 16″ x 2.75 Moped Racing Tires
  • Shimano Zee 4-Piston Hydraulic Disc Brake
  • Shimano Rear Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake with cut-off
  • 203mm Rotors all around
  • 2 sets of 74V Hobbyking Multistars 16AH Packs
  • Icharger 406 Duo (70A charger allows for 30min-1hr recharges)

QS Motor V3 205


The QS Motor that I used during the race was honestly a bit slow, that is because QS did not send me their fast wind motors, which would have allowed me to hit 55mph instead of the 50mph which I was hitting. However, torque and acceleration was very quick. 0-40mph took only 3.5sec and that is without a good launch.

The QS motor when paired with the Sabvoton controller is a match made in heaven. Both QS and Sabvoton companies have a close working relationship together and it is no surprise that the two systems work together in harmony.

The QS motor is quite an impressive motor weighing in at 30lbs, lots of copper mass, and aluminum stator. 50mm wide magnets, this motor does not mess around, and can take quite a beating even under track conditions.

Recently I was able to hit 60mph and later even 70mph on this motor at 116V and the motor was barely warm.

As you can see the QS Motor when paired up with the Sabvoton controller is a very potent platform for some serious performance.

Sabvoton Controller

Although designed as a electric scooter controller, it has found its way into high powered e-moto builds.

E.R.T. carries the latest generation of Sabvoton Controllers that are Current Unlocked, Fully Compatible with the Cycle Analyst V3 Display, Variable Regen, and Temp Protection.

The Sabvoton Controllers come in two different cases, the SSC which is a squarish case, and the SVM which is the rectangular case.

The SSC case allows for a larger aluminum heatsink, which should allow the controller to be run at higher power levels for a longer period of time.

E.R.T. carries Sabvoton Controllers in two Flavors, bare in mind that all our controllers are current unlocked so the 72V150A could be run at 200A for 16Kw. The 96V100A could be safely run at 150A.

Sabvoton 72V150A – 95V 200A Max
Sabvoton 96V100A – 116V 150A Max


Installation and Configuration 

Pairing up the Sabvoton and QS motor is quite easy, all the connectors are matching and are plug and play.

Unscrew the bolts on the Sabvoton controller, and screw on the marine lugs from the motor harness to the Sabvoton Controller.

Plug in the hall connector from the QS motor to the Sabvoton Controller.

Wire up the 2 wire Ignition wires to a key switch or a on / off switch. Additionally you can short them together but you would have to unplug the battery each time to turn off the system.

Connect the Cycle Analyst to the CA connector on the Sabvoton.

Plug in Battery and Turn on Ignition

The System should fire up now

All QS Motors when purchased with the Sabvoton Controller is pre-programmed prior to shipping out.


Sabvoton Installation Programming and Configuration

Instructions for Sabvoton Sinewave Controller 

5-31-2017 *Updated with MQCON Wiring Diagram*

   Sabvoton Sinewave Controllers are electric scooter / electric motorcycle grade sinewave controllers. They power and control 3-phase brushless motors and require hall sensor input. However they can be retrofitted to Electric Bicycles and when paired to a suitable motor, can give very powerful acceleration and top speed. I recommend the SVMC72150 version, which is capable of 150A battery and 350A phase. Which is @74V 11100W Battery and 25900W Phase before taking into account resistance and losses. This is a very capable Sinewave Controller and has been track tested.

Getting Started With Sabvoton Controllers

1. Phase / Hall Combos

These are the known Phase and Hall combos for the follow motors

Cromotor – Matching Phase and Hall Colors

MXUS 3000 – Swap Yellow and Green Phase – Swap Yellow and Green Halls

QS Motor – Matching Phase and Hall Colors

Cyclone 3000W – Phase all match – Swap Yellow and Green Halls

2. Wiring Diagram


Notes: Red and Black Wires are the battery wires.

1) Connect the orange E-lock wire directly to Red positive to start controller.

*2) If you have a power switch then connect the e-lock (orange wire) to one of the wires on the switch and the other wire from the switch to red positive.

Additionally: If you are using a Cycle Analyst with the shunt Adapter and a power switch then it would be like this.

*Note a power switch is not required but is highly recommended

3. Download Software


2a. Install USB drivers, then install the Sabvoton Software

4. Programming the Controller

Connect the USB programming cable into the controller. The larger part of the cable plugs into the computer’s USB port. Make sure controller has power.


Click Set>Port #

This varies depending on your computer, but generally try Ports 1-5 and see if your computer has communicate with the controller. You will know once the software interfaces with the controller.



Lack Volt = Think of this as the low voltage cut off, set this to the minimum voltage you want the controller to cut off power.

Example: Your using a 48v battery, you want to set this around 42V

Over Volt = Over voltage protection, I would set this to 95v or slightly above your battery’s maximum voltage. The maximum setting is 95v.

Example: Your using a 48V and you to set this around ~55v

Rated DC Current = This is the continuous rating for Battery amps, which dictates power. Set this Rated DC current = Max DC current or lower than Max DC Current. Increasing this number will increase wattage power and top speed.

Example: Rated DC Current 50A x 48V = 2400W!

Max DC Current = Maximum amount of Battery amps. Increasing this number will increase wattage power and top speed. But keep this equal to or higher than Rated DC Current.

Example: Rated DC Current 50A and Max DC Current 70A

Limit DC Current = Set this to match the Rated DC Current

Rated Phase Current = Phase amps, this controls the continuous amount of phase amps going into the motor. More phase amps will increase torque and acceleration. Generally you want this higher than Battery Amps, about 2-2.5x higher, but tune to your setup accordingly.

Max Phase Current = The maximum amount of phase current, keep this equal to or higher than the Rated Phase Current.



Electric Brake = Enable for Regen, only applies to Direct Drive Hub Motors.

Flux Weakening = Enable to increase top speed at the expensive of efficiency.  Also known as field weakening. Do not recommend higher than 50A otherwise you can damage or destablize the motor’s magnets.

Flux weakening current = 0-150A, the higher this setting the higher you can boost the top speed of your motor. Technically this counters EMF of the motor and forces the motor to run at a higher RPM.

Electric Brake Ph current = 0-200A This controls how strong the regen will be I generally set this at 100A on a 17″ moto wheel for street riding and 150A for track riding. 26″ Wheel you would want 80A or higher. Be warned, setting this too high will skid the rear tire upon deceleration and can fish tail the rear. Again, tune according to your motor and wheel setup.


Pn = Very important to set the correct number of pole pairs for the motor otherwise you will have poor performance. This is the number of magnets in your motor divided by two.

Hall Angle Test = Very import to run the Hall Angle Test map the hall sensors with the controller. Gone are the days of trying various hall and phase combinations.

Try a phase combo then click enable hall angle test, and change control mode to hall angle test. Click OK, then also change the test given current setting from 10A-28A, your motor should spin forward. Very Important to suspend the bike, because the motor will spin on its own for a few minutes.

If Hall Status = Passed then congrats you found the right combination! The Hall Angle setting should have changed to the proper “degree”. Click OK then yes on parameter store. Restart the controller and take it for a spin!

If the motor spins backwards change the Motor direction setting under “Motor”

If the Hall Test fails then change a different phase combination and run the hall test again.

To save the settings, you have to click SET! > DEBUG > Parameter Store > Yes and click OK.  That will save the settings.