E.R.T. BBSHD Upgrade kits replaces the stock BBSHD Controller which is limited to 52V and 30A current limit.
E.R.T. offers two different External Controller Upgrade Kits
E.R.T. BBSHD Sinewave 100V 50A
E.R.T. Phase Runner FOC 90V 50A
E.R.T. BBSHD Sinewave
E.R.T. Phase Runner FOC
Voltage / Current Limit
52V / 30A
100V / 50A
90V / 50A
12 Fet Controller
50mph (72V + Field Weakening)
No (It is tricky to install)
No (Working on it)
With the E.R.T. BBSHD kits, you would not be able to reuse your display, throttle, and other accessories.
The E.R.T. BBSHD systems uses the Popular Cycle Analyst as a Display for power readouts, battery level, voltage, current draw, odometer, temp reading, power control, cruise, and adjustable power level.
The BBSHD benefits greatly from higher voltage, which the E.R.T. BBSHD kits support, a 72V will dramatic increase the overall power and torque from your BBSHD.
High Power Hub Motor Setups
Why a hub motor and which one is suited for me?
Hub motors are generally much more reliable than mid drives due to little moving parts (the bearing)
Hub motors can be virtually silent with a Sinewave Controller
Hub motors can do regen braking
Hub motors can be very powerful
Hub motors require no maintenance
QS 205 V3
QS 273 V3
10Kw / 10000W
Commuting / Adventure
Commuting / Race
Speed @ 72V
Why get a hub motor from E.R.T. ?
E.R.T. is highly knowledgeable when it comes to Electric Motor drivetrain and performance. Racing is our passion, we regularly take our Electric Race Bikes to the track and compete with gas powered bikes. There, our motors and controllers have been extensively tested to the race track, to the point of failure.
QS 205 V3 survived 4 hours of continuous track racing before blowing out a hall sensor. The motor cover then was vented to allow airflow to the motor’s internals, and swapping over to the secondary hall sensor set allowed the motor to run normally.
Sabvoton 72V150A survived, albiet the controller needs airflow to survive sustained 11Kw outputs.
All motors and controllers pass a QA checklist prior to shipping out to the customer, to assure customer satisfaction.
What is the best setup for a beginner?
The best setup is arguably the EDGE 1500W Motor with our 12 FET Sinewave Controller kit in 26” Wheel Setup.
EDGE 1500W Motor is capable of nearly 40mph on 48-52V and close to 50mph on 72V should you decide to move up from a 48V battery to a 72V battery in the future.
In addition, EDGE 1500W is a high quality motor, that outperforms generic 1000W motors on Ebay and etc.
What is regen braking?
Regen braking allows the hub motor to act as a rear electronic brake therefore slowing down the motor and speed without using mechanical brakes. This allows electricity to be regenerated which would normally be lost through friction brakes.
All of E.R.T. hub motor kits support this feature including: EDGE 1500W and QS Motor Kits.
In addition, the Sabvoton Controller, which is a advanced sinewave controller allows for not only regular regen braking but also variable regenerative braking.
MXUS V3 Turbo 3K 3T Building the Electric Death Trike Death Trike V1 48V 750W BBS02
Building the Electric Death Trike took a span of a little over a year. The KMX Typhoon trike was picked up for a measly $700, a craigslist special. Although I have seen these trikes for as low as $500 on craigslist.
The first night I brought the trike home, I installed a Bafang BBS02 and a 48V battery onto it. From there the first version of the Death Trike was born, in its slowest incarnation.
The BBS02 wasn’t particularly powerful, torque was passable in the lower gears and eventually the trike would hit 30mph top speed. However, the trike did struggle with steep hills, often just crawling up steep grades. Shifting the trike constantly would become old especially when riding it on the street. Additionally, the BBS02 would become hot on extended rides, the small motor could not handle the extra weight and load of the Trike.
Death Trike V2 72V Cyclone 3Kw Motor
Death Trike V2 discarded the BBS02 and replaced it with the potent Cyclone 3000W motor, the bike now had dramatically more power compared to the BBS02.
The Cyclone is a bigger and heavier motor, with significantly beefed up internals. Torque, acceleration, and hill climbing abilities have significantly improved compared to the BBS02 but it was significantly louder. Moving up to 72V, the motor ran at a higher RPM so I can could get more use out of each gear. Shifting wasn’t as bad, and it was actually fun as It felt like a Formula-E car with fast and crisp shifting.
Due to the increase power and the long chain line, it caused all sorts of problems including snapping the deraileur hanger, chain tubes, chain and etc. This has left me stranded on several occasions and I’ve decided to go hub motor to alleviate the problems associated with mid drives.
Death Trike V3 72V MXUS V3 3K Turbo 11Kw
This is the Death Trike in its current rendition, running a 72V 16AH battery with a MXUS V3 3K Turbo and Sabvoton 72V150A controller. Power has gone up significantly, now the Trike is putting out 11Kw compared to the 3Kw with the Cyclone motor. Top speed is now a little over 50mph, and the Trike gets there in only a few seconds. The Trike runs smoothly and silently due to the Sinewave Sabvoton Controller. Also, the Trike has forward and reverse.
Front Wheel Setup has also been upgraded from the stock 16″ Bicycle Tires and Wheels to 14″ Dirt Bike Rims and 14″ x 2.75 IRC NR77 Moped Racing Tires.
Rear Tire has been upgraded from the Shinko 16″ x 2.25 to Pirelli 16″ x 2.75. Rim is a 20″ XL Trippin BMX Rim.
The Sabvoton Controller is completely maxed out at 150A, with regen capabilities for rear braking. With a 74V battery, output was 150A from the battery and 350A to the motor.
The MXUS motor would run a little warm especially at higher power levels, a QS V3 205 motor would take care of any heat issues. Power is more than adequate however, a front steering stabilizer would take care of the front end wobble.
Yes, the trike is driftable.
Thank you for reading this article, I did took the time and effort to write it so hopefully you the reader learned a bit about building the Death Trike, as I did enjoyed riding it.
Once you download the E.R.T. Programming Software. Open it and you should see these files.
Open the 1. Python Installers folder and install these Python Installer files in this order, these are pre-requesites in order to run the programming software.
ERT Programming Profiles
Copy the “xpd” folder from 2. XPD Programming Profiles folder to your “Documents” folder
3. Programming the E.R.T. Sinewave Controller
Copy the “3. XPD Programming Software” folder anywhere in your computer
Open the “3. XPD Programming Software” folder
Extract and open xpd.py
This is what you would see when you first fire open the software
For the BBSHD Sinewave controller we would be using the “ERT 12FET Sinewave” Profile
For the EDGE 1500W Kit we will using the ERT 12FET Sinewave (Hub) Profile
For the 8000W E.R.T. Sinewave Controller we will be using the ERT 18FET Sinewave Profile
Go ahead and click “Edit”
3. Programming the Controller
Here are some basic parameters and their descriptions.
Controller Type: KH612 / KH618
Let this setting as it is
Current / Voltage Design
Battery Current Limit
Battery Current is the maximum amps the controller will pull from battery. 40A is the safe limit for the BBSHD, although the controller can tolerate up to 50A. Use at your own risk, more amps will increase acceleration and torque but will heat up the motor and stress the battery more.
Recommend 40-50A, if you are running a smaller front chainring you can run a higher Battery current limit.
18 Fet E.R.T. Sinewave can run up to 70A
Phase Current Limit
Phase current is the current that goes into the motor. Can be safely run up to 100A, higher amps will yield more torque and acceleration, but increase heat to the motor. Lower amps will allow for smoother power at lower speeds, but less torque.
Recommended 65-90A 12 Fet
Recommended 120-145 18Fet
This delays the throttle ramping so you can smoother acceleration from a stop.
Soft Start Time
This determines the soft start delay. Recommend setting this to 1.
Battery Low Voltage
This determines the low voltage cut off, to protect your battery from being discharged too low. This depends on your battery.
If you are running 48V then set this to 42V.
If you are running 52V then set this to 46V
If you are running 72V then set this to 68V
*This is optional, if your battery has a BMS then this is not 100% necessary*
Speed Switch Mode
This determines how the speed switch mode works, either switch or button
100% is max speed however you can increase this to 130% for even higher speeds at the expense of efficiency.
Similar to the Speed Limit, this applies to the current. Can be increased to 120% for even higher currents.
EBS is Regen braking, this does not apply to the BBSHD as this motor cannot regen.
Be sure to disable this setting if you do no want to run regen.
This setting determines the regen braking force. Higher settings will allow higher regen braking force.
Flux weakening increases top speed and motor RPM at the expense of efficiency
Flux weakening level
Default is 35 but can be increased to 50 for higher top speeds. Programming the Controller
Once you are satisfied with the results click the “Apply” button.
You will be return to the main menu
Now make sure your battery is unplugged from the controller
Plug the programming cable into your controller and also the other end into your USB port on your computer
There should be a number in the Serial Port field
When you are ready to program click “Apply”
You should see a progress bar, it should only take a few seconds to program
Now, unplug the programming cable and you are ready to ride!
E.R.T.’s Lipo Tutorial for Commutting, Racing, and Performance Riding
For those looking for a alternative to 18650 lithium ion batteries, RC LIPOs batteries are a great alternative as they are cheaper, lighter, and usually have a higher discharge rating. In addition RC LIPOs can be assembled, charged, and be ready to run usually much quicker and easier than other battery packs.
LiPO is the battery of choice for racing and high performance applications. The reasons to use LiPO (Lithium Polymer) is that they are cheap, powerful, light, and quick to recharge. I personally have been using Lithium Polymer batteries for the last 3 years and haven’t had any issues with them provided you are careful with the charging process and be adamant about protecting the batteries from punctures during riding.
Where to buy LiPO Batteries
A good place to buy lipos are from HobbyKing.com as they are inexpensive and
And the batteries to get are the Multistar Multirotor batteries. The batteries that are the best bang for the buck are the 4S (4 cell) 10000mah or 16000mah batteries with the latter being slightly larger and heavier but higher capacity and discharge rates.
The LiPO chargers that I recommend are definitely among the best. I recommend either the iCharger 308B Duo or iCharger 406B Duo chargers, they can charge batteries extremely fast, 50A for the 308B and 70A for the 406B. They are both dual channel chargers so you can two separate packs at the same time, this is useful if you have multiple bikes and want to save time while charging.